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yourself agreeable, you will find it will
become a habit, and you will be welcome
everywhere. I hope future travellers may agree
with me, that it is not absolutely necessary to
enter forcibly into other people's houses, or
to demand as a right the supper which one
ought to receive with thanks, if voluntarily
given. For instance, on one occasion he was
taken prisoner by mistake, and the next day

"I woke up quite in my usual state of
philosophy, highly amused at my situation. The
soldiers collected in numbers, to amuse
themselves at my expense. After some little
' chaffing,' they began to dance about, going
through their dounfátu or war-boast, slipping
their lances at me, and catching them by the
butt when the point was within an inch or
two of my body. I knew I was in no danger,
if I only kept my temper. So when the first
man had performed his part, I took a piece of
straw and gave it him, telling him that was
the sword he needed. This raised a laugh
against him, and entering into the spirit of
the thing, we went on famously. I acted the
part of a chief: gave one man a straw coronet,
to another a bracelet, to a third an imaginary
mule, and so on; while to make the matter
more real, I invested a dollar, luckily hidden
in the corner of my belt, in some drink, and
each bringing his share of dinner, we had a
grand carnivorous feast. Thus, by a little
management, I became a great favourite with
the soldiery, instead of being bullied by them.
Let this be a warning to hot-headed travellers.
My greatest discomfort arose from my
complaint. But this only served to draw out
the good qualities of my comrades, who
contrived for me all sorts of little necessary
conveniences, and went about in search of
medicines. They procured me a pungent root,
which did me so much good, that on the
third day of my imprisonment I was quite
well!"

We think, that while England, Scotland, and
Ireland can produce such specimens of
travellers as those we have quoted, no one need
dread the enervation of our modern gentlemen,
as long as they escape the influence of Generals
Pipeclay, Martinet, and Routine.

CHRISTMAS IN SOUTHERN ITALY.

"COME along with me to church," said a
Neapolitan friend, last year, when the bells
were chiming more merrily than usual, as
if they themselves had their part in the fun
of the season; " there are beautiful things to
be heard and seen." So off I set to the
parish church of a village not far from
Naples. The high altar was blazing with
light. On the right lay the presepe (the
manger), and on the left stood erect the
Madonna; whilst round that impersonation
clustered the young damsels of the country.
The Madonna looked as benignant as wax
could look. A magnificent flaxen wig flowed
over her shoulders, whilst a splendid white
satin dress attracted many eyes ; but the manger
was, on this occasion, the great object of attention ;
and it had been expanded, I found, into
a marvellous large town, into which was
crowded almost every known animal. The
Bethlehem of the artist was a wonderfully
hilly district, in which houses hung on at
every conceivable angle. Trees and flowers
bloomed all around, without regard to climate
or season. Nor was the star forgotten ; which,
painted in circlets of red, blue, and green,
was attached to the end of a pole, that
protruded from what might have been the
market-place of the city. Its light had
apparently already led the shepherds to the holy
spot, who, dressed in Calabrian hats and
Spanish cloaks, and bearing small hurdy-
gurdys in their hands, were supposed to be
celebrating the auspicious event. The manger
itself was empty, as the placing of the
bambino (the infant) within it is a solemn
ceremony, reserved for early Christmas morning.

There is no more distinctive feature in
the Christmas of Southern Italy, than the
manger; and therefore I have adverted to it
first. The erecting of it, whether in the church
or a private house, excites a vast amount
of interest. It is a sign of approaching
festivity, equivalent to our hanging up the
mistletoe, or decking our windows with
holly; and, in a country village, there are as
many small sensations as there are presepes
erected. Reports are constantly circulating
as to the progress which each is making,
and comparisons are drawn which stimulate
their respective proprietors to make greater
efforts to beautify them. The village carpenter
is in great requisition; and I shall never forget
his vast importance, inasmuch as I was the
sufferer for it, during the last Novena. My doors
were gaping, so as to admit every breath of
wind that blew, and my windows had been
beaten in by a storm; but prayers and
remonstrances were of no avail to move Maestro
Raffaele. He had to finish the presepe of
the church, and another for Don Carlo, and
another for Don Giuseppe, and others for a
whole host of dons; so that I was
compelled to wait with as much complacency and
patience as I could muster. In fact, what
could I do otherwise? It would not have
been Christmas without the presepe; and
I would have slept without any door or
window rather than destroy the associations of
such a season. Indeed, I am glad now to think
that not one moment of Maestro Raffaele's
invaluable time was occupied by me.

As soon as the presepes are finished, all the
population turns out to visit them. It is an
evidence of devotion so to do; and the
stranger would at this season be astonished
at the crowds he meets of well-dressed people
hurrying backwards and forwards, as if intent
on some important business. Curiosity, as
well as devotion, has its share in the
movement; for as, on such occasions, the interior
of one's house is thrown open to visitors who

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