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invaded by the English ; it is but very
recently that its own neighbours have so far
advanced its dignity as to provide it with a
pump-room and gardens, at the same time
enclosing and adorning its chief wells. The
little spa, protected from the north winds by
the last hills of the Taunus, and favoured
with a climate frequently compared to that
of Nice, has been visited this season by about
three thousand persons, among whom it is
considered by the neighbours fortunate that
there were few English. It is not because
I am ungrateful to the place, that I have
troubled myself to commend it to my
countrymen. I know well that it will not interest
the loungers whom the Germans do not love.
It is a quiet haunt for quiet people innocent
of dissipation. It is unprovided with a
gaming table, and must needs be visited by
those who seek only for wholesome recreation,
and who can feel themselves to be in good
society among the works of God. Great
people who come hither arrive without their
state. The Duchess of Orleans has spent
here many months, and means to come again.

Ignorant of medicine, I can record only the
popular impression of the most important
uses of the Soden climate and its waters. All
agree that Soden is an admirable spa for
anyone who suffers from diseases of the chest.
Persons even in the last stage of consumption
have here, it is said, found relief ; and
the wells (which are not named but
numbered) differing in strength, those having the
first numbers will not disagree with the
unpractised stomach. Many disordered
stomachs are invigorated here, and many a
weak frame has acquired strength. Women
and children are much benefited by the
waters, and by the fresh mountain air. The
number of the springs, as I have said, lead
to the neglect of many that are very valuable.
Thus there is, near the village of Neuenhain,
situated on a hill that looks down upon
Soden, a chalybeate spring (Stahl brunnen)
used almost solely by the peasants, who well
understand its tonic power. I should say
that Soden was the very place for persons
convalescent after serious disease.

The neighbourhood of Soden abounds in spots
long famous for their beauty, — Konigstein,
Falkenstein, Eppstein, the Lorsbach valley
Kronenthal, and Kronenberg, &c. Excursions
of another character are to be made
easily to Frankfort, Mayence, and Wiesbaden,
places very quickly reached by rail. Promenades,
one might say, are before every door,
and almost every house is surrounded by its
shady garden and its orchard.

Tiie accommodations of the place are of a
kind to content reasonable people. Every
needful comfort is provided in the Kurhaus
and in several good hotels, as well as in
private houses. Ordinaries are open to the
visitors at charges varying from eight pence
to two shillings, and at breakfast, though the
bread is not agreeable, the cream is of a
quality almost unknown in British towns.
In many houses baths are to be had, for
which the usual charge is a shilling.

A lady is in the place who has lived in
England, speaks both French and English,
understands English wants, and who can let
lodgings to the English visitor. As she is
alone in this respect, I do no person injustice,
and may save trouble to some reader if I
sin so far against etiquette as to make
public her nameMiss Winckler. There are
five or six private medicinal springs in her
garden, and a bath is established in her
house, which is also in immediate proximity
to the chief spring. Her prices, which
depend upon the time of year, are fixed for every
month in the season, and the utmost ever
demanded by her for a single room is sixteen
shillings or seventeen shillings a week.

This season it has happened that no bed
was to be had in Soden, and many visitors
have lodged at Höchst or Frankfort, waiting
till apartments were vacated. Others, whom
I think wise, take up their abodes at Neuenhain,
and in some other parts of the
surrounding district. By so doing, they may
perhaps get fresher air and finer views, while
they are living at small cost among the
kindliest of people. One thing I may as well
add, that they do not live among a servile
race. The German peasant has a truer sense
of his own place in creation than the British
cottager ; and this is more especially the
case when he abides near the mountains.
You may lodge wherever they will have you
in the country about Soden and receive careful
attendance, be provided with clean rooms
and all things that the resources of the landlord
or landlady, helped by your money, are
able to supply. However it may be years
hence, now it may be safely said, that you will
nowhere find yourself the victim of extortion ;
but at the same time I must add, that
you will find nowhere anyone disposed to be
a victim to that sort of moral extortion in
which English lodgers are not quite


If one leaf fall from the o'erhanging tree,
  Whose complete form is echoed in the lake,
Unto its kindred image it will flee,
  Among the myriad making no mistake,
And by such instinct, which cannot be wrong,
  Do we find souls that will reflect our own,
As once I found one face, amid a throng,
  Which still my memory bears, as it were carved
on stone.

Like the combinèd light of many stars,
  In her were many beauties blent in one,
And her soul, as a captive through his bars,
  Looked through her face, like a beclouded sun,
Yet beamed with love all kindred hearts to win,
  And, in her movements, graces never taught,
Revealed the beauty of that soul within,
  And flowed like poet's words, expressing beauty's

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